Paradoxically, one of the most popular questions I get from people who come to me to seek help in training their dogs is “how do I make him/her eat?” It always perplexes me why “make” and “eat” belong in the same sentence, and not in the context of “making food.” Food is something that an animal – any animal – relies on for survival, which means that there is no need to “make” them survive; they WILL eat and survive, whether you like it or not. It is their strongest instinct.
But then it usually goes like that “He/she is never hungry! They would not take a kibble or work for food! They would not even touch their dinner!”
Now, there are several issues going on here, as I see it. First, if a dog refuses to eat and it is not visibly ill, it means that, as was already articulated previously, they are not hungry. What does it mean, to be not hungry? It means that in this specific moment in time a dog’s body does not feel like it needs to consume any calories. This ability to self-regulate caloric consumption, in fact, is amazing and needs to be celebrated. Loss of this ability results in all sorts of food disorders.
Second, from owner’s perspective, for some reason, it seems like a terrible, horrible thing. They almost feel like they are failing as dog owners in their inability to satisfy the primary needs of their pet. This sense of guilt manifests in extreme uneasiness about how much/when/what they think their dog must eat and in frantic search for better/healthier/fancier food options. I mean, if someone came up with something called “food toppers,” and this product is sold widely across North America, it truly must be some kind of psychological pandemic. I call it AI (I) or Appetite Insufficiency (Imaginary).
We all can agree on the fact that each dog is its own different being. This means that their energy (food) needs will vary greatly, even within one breed and one weight group. There is no way to know how much food your dog needs except for trying out what works for them specifically, without being caught up in overthinking about why your aunt Lula’s golden eats four cups of food a day and yours only wants two. Or why your dog will eat anything except for what is in their bowl.
Here how it works. Pick a brand of food that is of good quality. It does not have to be the most expensive, or freeze-dried, or air-dried, or raw, or home-cooked and processed with baby food blender. Do not overthink it, remember? Any type of food that has good ingredients in it (an exception is if your dog has a known food allergy, then obviously avoid those ingredients) and that satisfies your budget will work.
Read the feeding guidelines and start with the suggested portion sizes. In the morning, put half of the suggested daily portion in a bowl and leave it for your dog to consume for 15 minutes. If in 15 minutes the food is still there, fully or partially, repeat the same process in the evening. If all the food is gone, same thing. IMPORTANT: no treats (except for when you are training) during the day. No food scraps, no “you are so cute here is a cookie” – absolutely nothing.
In a week, you should see an emerging pattern and can begin troubleshooting. If your dog is consistently leaving food behind, it means that you are giving them too much food. Cut whatever you were giving in half and give it another week. Your goal is to see a hungry, eager to eat dog that is really looking forward to those mealtimes and consumes everything you put in their bowl right away. If half of the suggested portion works, and your dog consistently looks healthy, than it is what their caloric needs are.
If your dog is consistently eating the whole bowl of food and then still looks hungry, keep doing what you are doing for two or three more weeks. Keep track of your dog’s waistline and weight. If in a month your dog seems to not have gained or lost any weight and overall looks healthy, then this is the right portion for them. If your dog gained weight on that portion, cut the food down to 2/3 and give it another couple of weeks or a month. If your dog lost weight, add ¼ of a portion and, again, wait a few weeks to see the results.
If your dog seems to not enjoy their food at all, do not immediately jump to switching foods or buying canned food, or those “food toppers.” There is truly no need. It can be harmful, in fact. It is almost like giving your kid who refuses salad, a bag of chips while hoping that it will prompt their appetite. Remember: no animal will starve itself to death in front of food, so no need to make them eat.
Yes, I have seen many (what people call them) “picky” eaters – in fact, my own dog was one of them. He ate so little that it scared the hell out of me sometimes, because it was almost four times less than what a portion size for his weight was supposed to be. But guess what? He was always in great shape, had a healthy life, and died at 13, which is pretty good for his breed. His body needed very little food, so that is what he got.
There is no such thing as “picky” eater – it is a social construct created by dog owners who feel that their dog does not meet portion “requirements” for their size. But who says they should? Stop panicking at the sight of untouched bowl full of food. Think rationally. Of course, your dog will eat treats while refusing his regular meals – you also probably like indulging in ice cream while not being truly hungry for something healthier and more nutritious. Does it mean that you are starving yourself to death? Probably not. Your dog will show you how much food they need. You just need to let them do that and try to keep any psychological insecurities hidden away for more appropriate occasions.